Is there a plumber in here? (in Off-topic)
July 19 2010 11:15 PM EDT
I'll even accept carpenters who's installed showers before.
A friend asked me to install a fiberglass shower for her in a half-bath, and I think I'm in over my head. I can handle installing the drain system, but I don't know how to run water lines.
I'll demo her sink to put the shower in its place, which means I'll be left with the shut-off valves for hot and cold water as well as the flexible lines that currently run to the sink. I hope I can just run the flex lines to the new shower hardware and attach them with screw-on compression valves, but I know it won't be that easy.
How do I pull this off? There must be a way to do this without soldering copper lines.
Keep this in mind before answering:
This does NOT have to be to code, nor will it be. The home will be razed in two years when the county buys the property to expand a road. She wants this done quickly and cheaply, and she doesn't to pay a pro for quality.
So how do I jerry rig this thing?
July 19 2010 11:38 PM EDT
Buy longer Flex lines and run them to a Flex lined Shower head and that should do it for ya.
For a little reference :-)
July 19 2010 11:42 PM EDT
quick side note, in the pick it shows several go betweens and cut offs. You do not need to use them if you directly connect them to the showerhead and just use the original cutoffs but using them is nice :-)
July 20 2010 12:05 AM EDT
The pic only show trim for two shower heads and levers. I'm trying to figure out how to connect to them, which (I think) means I'll need to connect to a rough-in valve.
July 20 2010 4:06 PM EDT
Seriously, no plumbers?
Here's a plumber: http://is.gd/dzNrE
I call myself a carpenter.
I dont know whats wrong with more flex hose? but be sure to by some barb brass fittings to fit inside the hose to join them and use 2 screw on compression valves to seal the deal. one for each hot and cold.
you shouldnt need more than some regualer screw drivers, a bit of glue for pvc pipe drain action. like my boss says 'if dont fit, f*** it caulk it!' lol
other than that make sure there is a good moisture barrier and a good seal(accoustic sealant) all the way around your Polyurethane Vapor Barrier in one piece behind the shower. make sure there are blocks between the studs for drywall returns.
July 20 2010 7:42 PM EDT
You have no idea how ghetto I'm going with this... I'm not even going to recess the lines into the drywall. Technically, the house could be razed within six months, but the county is too broke to pull that off. My guess is two years. Thanks, recession!
Plus, with the electrical lines where they are, this will never be to code. With everything hidden behind the fiberglass enclosure, I can still make it look as aesthetically pleasing as the rest of the house, but she doesn't even care about that. The woman just wants a shower in that room.
July 20 2010 7:47 PM EDT
And FYI, part of the reason she doesn't care about the property is because it's a free house to her. Her relatives own it as investment/rental property, but they can't rent it out due to the county pulling eminent domain. So they gave it to her to do with as she pleases.
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